A protégé of Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons, Noir Kei Ninomiya pushes the boundaries of garment construction. His signature? Never resorting to traditional sewing. Fabrics are meticulously assembled using rivets, rings, and intricate weaving techniques, crafting a fascinating modular structure.
This season, armour transforms into poetry. Deep black engages in a dialogue with plays of transparency in tulle and organza, shaping sculptural volumes that seem to float effortlessly around the body. Balancing refined punk and dark romanticism, each jacket or dress is a wearable work of art, as technically brilliant as it is profoundly moving.
About this selection
{"type":"root","children":[{"type":"paragraph","children":[{"type":"text","value":"Trained under Rei Kawakubo in the esteemed Comme des Garçons ateliers before launching his own line under the parent house's aegis, Kei Ninomiya holds a position in contemporary Japanese fashion as singular as it is indispensable. Where his mentor works from philosophical and emotional concepts, and Junya Watanabe embarks on the deconstruction of sartorial archetypes, Ninomiya has imposed upon himself a foundational constraint as radical as it is productive: never to assemble two pieces of fabric using traditional sewing. This decision, which might initially seem an arbitrary limitation, has proven to be the wellspring of a creative language of absolute richness and originality, characteristic of a designer compelled to invent his own technical solutions for every construction challenge he encounters.\n\nThe rivets, metallic rings, and complex weaving and assembly techniques developed by Ninomiya throughout his collections constitute a unique constructive vocabulary in fashion history – a modular textile architecture whose internal logic captivates engineers and contemporary art connoisseurs alike. The Women's SS26 collection pushes this exploration into new territories, bringing the house's characteristic deep black into dialogue with exquisitely delicate plays of transparency in tulle and organza to create sculptural volumes that appear to float around the body with a lightness that their technical construction sophistication would, a priori, render impossible. This tension between the punk rigor of rivet and ring assembly and the romantic poetry of layered transparencies is what makes each Noir Kei Ninomiya piece so captivating and memorable, a portable work of art unparalleled in the world of contemporary fashion.\n\nAt Actuel B, we offer a selection from the Noir Kei Ninomiya women's collection, available in our Avignon and Arles boutiques as well as on our website. Jackets, dresses, and architectural pieces are presented by teams trained in the technical and poetic universe of the house, with the personalized advice that characterizes our approach to multi-brand luxury."}]}]}